Day 9: The Patagonia Adventure - This is Not a Vacation

Day 9 - Back to camp - Friday, 3/3/23

A comparison of what we saw vs. what we should have seen.

We reached the ‘challenge day’. Per our itinerary, this would be our biggest hike with the most miles (14) and elevation (4,500). But it would also give us the most awesome views of the mountain towers. If you Google Patagonia’s Three Towers you will find “Located in Southern Chile, Torres del Paine National Park is a top destination for hikers and climbers in Patagonia.”

Knowing this was a big climb, we were not apprehensive, but were excited. Refreshed after a good night’s sleep at EcoCamp, we were ready for our challenge.

Things were looking really good with a sunny sunrise. After breakfast and coffee, Mariana and Daniel came with good cheer and reminders to pack lots of food for fuel. We had a fourteen-mile hike ahead of us. But after three days of hiking in rain and sleeping in tents, we were prepared for this challenge. The beautiful mountain towers served as a backdrop to our EcoCamp community. It was inspiring. There wasn’t a hint of hesitation as we began our last and most difficult day of the W Trek.

We hiked out of the EcoCamp enjoying the beautiful colors of a Patagonia sunrise. We were optimistic with no rain or cloud cover in our view. The climb began with a stunning valley with a roaring river below, reminding us of the ever-changing landscapes in nature. With our trusted guides, Mariana in front and Daniel in back, we quietly ascended the mountain. After crossing a suspension bridge and sighting a rainbow, light rain began. Soon we reached our first basecamp equipped with toilets and picnic tables.

Drink. Eat. Layer. Unlayer. Repeat.

We had this routine down.

Leaving the camp fueled and ready for the next leg, we entered a forest. Although the conditions were rainy, the trees shielded us as we made our way to the towers. More miles were logged as our band of eleven progressed through our route. We reached the point where the protection of the forest ended and climbing of rocks and boulders would begin.

Mariana: “Look up. You do not see the towers. This means that if we continue through the hardest part, the boulders, we will not see the towers when we reach the top. Do you want to continue?”

The rain had now turned into freezing sleet.

Mariana (when there was no response): “The rocks will be slick and we will climb in the snow. Do you want to continue?”

Without hesitation, everyone in our group unanimously shook our heads and gave a declarative ‘yes’.

Single file with our great guides supporting us, we climbed the boulders and rocks through sleet, snow, and wind until we reached the top. One step at a time and with group encouragement we watched our footing as looking up served no purpose. Mariana was right. Nothing above our vantage point was within view.

By the time we reached the top, it was a blizzard. Four seasons, you ask? Yep, saw all four on this hike.

As our posse (Tom, Kristi, Garrett, and me) took a selfie, we noted that we could later photoshop in what the background should have looked like. The photo above is my attempt at giving this representation. Even without seeing the towers, we were ecstatic to have reached the top. Our blizzard training from current and previous lives in the midwest certainly paid off in completing this challenge.

Taking in a quick bite of our packed lunches to fuel our descent, we were ready to get back to EcoCamp glamping.

Heading down the boulders and maneuvering rocks through the whipping flurries, we noticed that the number of hikers coming up was tapering off. We soon found out why. As we reached the point where the forest began, there was a barricade up with rangers manning the post. They had closed down the trail to the top due to weather conditions. The trail to the towers was closed (ultimately it was shut down for two days). We were among the last of the hikers to ascend to the top. Challenge met!

Who knew we were so hardcore?

Hiking back down the mountain felt like a scene out of “It’s a Wonderful Life”.

Yea…. we get it. Life is so good.

More snow to rain and more eating and layer changing, we kept making our way down the mountain. A few miles to the end entering the valley, the sun began shining brightly, giving us the most beautiful Patagonia views. Our tired bodies regained some energy.

Limping into EcoCamp, we gave each other high fives and hugs. Mission. Accomplished. We could now relax in the comfort of our domes with hot showers awaiting our tired bodies.

Reconvening before dinner to get our briefing for our last hike the next day, we raised glasses for a group ‘salute’.

A comment was thrown out: “What a way to spend our vacation!”

Mariana answered without missing a beat “This is not a vacation.”

Agreed and challenge accepted.